Better yet, install dual hand brakes - and even a rear coaster brake. The coaster brake is harder to control, although useful when rims are wet. The front wheel will never skid in straight-ahead braking on good pavement. But it can lock, which will cause you to be thrown over the handlebars. The correct technique for a panic stop eliminates this danger:

Apply the rear brake lightly as you increase pressure on the front brake. Slide back on the saddle to increase weight on the rear wheel. When the rear wheel begins to skid, you know it's close to lifting off the ground, so you need to reduce pressure on the front brake. This is important. Do not use the rear brake hard in a panic stop; it'll only make the rear wheel skid sooner. You'll wear out your rear tire and not get any more stopping power. If you use the rear brake gently; then the behavior of the rear wheel becomes a gauge that you use to tell how hard you can squeeze the front brake.

For moderate stops when going straight on dry pavement, use the front brake alone. Then you can't skid, and you have one hand free for signaling or gear shifting. But to control speed downhill, use both brakes equally to divide the heat buildup. It's very important your brakes are in good condition; if they aren't, a panic stop is not possible. One small side wall bulge in your front rim from running over a pothole can cut your braking power drastically, because the wheel will threaten to lock much sooner at the bulged part of the rim. Address these issues before they turn into major problems.

It's also important to make sure the front brake lever is on the same side on all bicycles you ride, since you train your hands differently. If you have not yet developed a preference, give the front brake your stronger hand.

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