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Walk into any supermarket, especially the newer types such as Whole
Foods, and you'll see an array of "better for you" promises on the
packages. These terms may make the foods seem healthier, but are they
really?
"Just because they sound better doesn't necessarily mean they are
better. These terms are more about food safety and consumer perceptions
than about nutritional quality," says Jane Kolodinsky, Ph.D., a
professor of nutrition economics at the University of Vermont.
So
why do we feel more comfortable eating "natural," "fresh" or "organic"
foods? "We are less afraid of any risk when it's natural and more
afraid when it's manmade," says David Ropeik, a lecturer on risk
communication at the Harvard School of Public Health. He cites two
reasons. One: There is an "implicit lack of trust by the consumer in
businesses that are out for their own profit, and we trust nature a lot
more." Two: When we encounter things we don't understand, we don't
trust them, or at least we proceed with caution. And according to
Ropeik, there is not necessarily any reason to fear processed foods. He
argues that there is a much higher risk associated with food poisoning
or an allergic reaction than with chemicals or pesticides used in foods
-- even long-term.
Still, these terms do make us feel good about the foods we buy, so it's helpful to know what they actually mean.
FRESH
"Fresh"
makes me think that the food was recently made, produced or harvested,
but that's not what it means to the FDA or the USDA. "It's more about
the fact that the food was never frozen," says Kolodinsky. "A consumer
could easily misinterpret the meaning," she adds.
So, although
it's not mandated by the Nutrition Labeling and Education Act of 1990,
as other nutrient content claims are, the FDA has issued a regulation
for the term "fresh." The agency wanted to avoid possible misuse on
food labels.
The regulation defines fresh to mean that a food is
raw, has never been frozen or heated and contains no preservatives
(except for low-level irradiation to kill bacteria, approved pesticides
before or after harvest, FDA-approved food additive wax on raw fruits
and vegetables, pasteurization of milk or a mild chlorine or acid wash
on produce). Refrigeration is also OK. The terms "fresh frozen,"
"frozen fresh" and "freshly frozen" can be used for foods that are
quickly frozen while still fresh. Blanching (brief scalding before
freezing to prevent nutrient breakdown) is allowed.
In terms of
meat and poultry, which are regulated by the USDA, the term fresh can
only be used on foods that have never reached temperatures below 26
degrees Fahrenheit. Despite the fact that this is below freezing, the
USDA has stated that the product still remains "fresh" and pliable at
this temperature.
"And don't confuse the dating system with the
term fresh," says Gail Frank, R.D., Dr.Ph., a professor of nutrition at
California State University, Long Beach, and spokesperson for the
American Dietetic Association.
Fresh food may have a "sell-by
date" (the last day recommended to sell) printed on it, but it's not
required by the USDA. Some labels may have a "use-by date," which means
the food should be consumed by that time.
ALL NATURAL
Natural
seems to be the term for the new millennium. It implies made by nature,
unchanged, nothing artificial, and healthy. "'Natural' is probably the
least trustworthy of all the label terms," says Kolodinsky. While the
term sounds attractive, it truly doesn't say much about the nutritional
quality of the food or its safety.
Although the FDA has not
established a regulatory definition for "natural," it is discussed in
the preamble to the final food labeling regulations. The FDA's policy
regarding the use of "natural" is that nothing artificial or synthetic
has been included in or added to a food that would not normally be
expected to be in it. The same applies to use of the terms "100%
Natural" and "All Natural."
The USDA allows meat and poultry
products to be labeled natural if they do not contain ingredients,
colors or preservatives considered artificial and not natural to the
product.
"Keep in mind that the term is a passive description.
It tells you what the food is not, but that doesn't mean it's better
for you. Yes, it might have no preservatives, but that isn't always a
good thing," says Frank.
And don't confuse the term "natural"
with "organic." They're not interchangeable. Natural foods are
typically made without additives or preservatives, but they may still
contain chemicals, pesticides or genetically engineered components.
Certified organic food has none of these things.
Ditto for
"free-range" and "hormone-free." The chicken at the supermarket labeled
"free-range" may have been exactly that, but it's still not the same as
"organic."
ORGANIC
"Organic is the least confusing
term of all," says Kolodinsky. In fact, back in October 2002 the
federal government created a law defining the term as it's used on food
labels.
So what are organic foods? The USDA regulations cover
three major areas: Crop Standards, Livestock Standards and Handling
Standards. Only food producers who comply with the federal organic
rules can call their food "certified organic." The USDA requires that
certified organic crops "be produced without pesticides, herbicides,
synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing
radiation." Farmers must use organic seeds and may not apply
"prohibited substances" (i.e., pesticides, synthetic fertilizers) to
the land for at least three years before the harvest of an organic
crop.
Additionally, organically raised animals must be given
organic feed only, kept free of growth hormones and antibiotics and
have access to the outdoors.
You can actually view all the organic standards at this site: www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/ProdHandReg.html
Accredited
USDA certifying agents approve the farmers' "organic system plan" and
make sure their farms adhere to standards. Organic foods can be labeled
several different ways:
100% Percent Organic: products made entirely with organic ingredients.
Organic:
products with 95 percent organic ingredients. The remaining 5 percent
or less of ingredients must be listed on the label and can consist of
synthetics approved by the USDA.
Made With Organic Ingredients: The
product must contain at least 70 percent organic ingredients and can
display the phrase "Made with Organic" followed by a listing of up to
three specific ingredients.
Products that have less than 70
percent organic ingredients cannot use the term "organic" anywhere on
the display label. But they can put specific organic ingredients on the
ingredients list on the information panel.
That said, the USDA
makes "no claims that organically produced food is safer or more
nutritious than conventionally produced food." Also, keep in mind that
it's not the government that does the certification; it's a certifying
agency independent of the government.
"The term 'organic foods'
refers to the methods used to produce the foods rather than
characteristics of the food themselves. What you're buying is a lot of
slogans and a product that isn't likely to be better than foods that
are not called organic -- certainly not safer, more nutritious or
better tasting," says Stephen Barrett, M.D., consumer advocate and
creator of Quackwatch.org.
CHARLES STUART PLATKIN JD MPH
is a nutrition and public health advocate, author of the best seller
Breaking the Pattern (Plume, 2005), Breaking the FAT Pattern (Plume,
2006) and Lighten Up (Penguin USA/Razorbill, 2006) and founder of
Integrated Wellness Solutions. Copyright 2006 by Charles Stuart
Platkin. Sign up for the free The Diet Detective newsletter at
www.dietdetective.com.
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