I heard
about the work Michele Simon was doing as a public health lawyer and advocate
through the academic grapevine. She’s been zealously focusing on the food
industry and food politics for the last 15 years. When I caught up with Michele
via e-mail (and a bit by phone) and asked her several questions about food
politics, here’s what she had to say:
Location: Oakland, Calif. (blocks from
the best farmers’ market)
Position: Author, Appetite for
Profit: How the Food Industry Undermines Our Health and How to Fight Back
Résumé (brief): Public health attorney
and author
Birthday: March 31
Hometown: New York City (I miss the bagels)
Education: J.D., UC Hastings College of the
Law, M.P.H., Yale, B.S., Carnegie Mellon
Favorite Food Movement Web Links: Too many
to list.
Favorite Food: Whatever fruit is in season.
Your Website:http://www.appetiteforprofit.com/
Diet Detective: You're an attorney by
training, so what moved you to get involved in the politics of food?
Michele Simon: Around the time I was
graduating from law school I decided to make some changes in my diet. The more
I read, the more I realized how much policy and politics impact our food
choices and the information we receive about food. At the time (the mid-1990s),
food wasn’t yet such a hot topic, and I realized that we needed more lawyers
writing about this connection. I was also inspired by the work of Marion
Nestle, but this was even before her first book, Food Politics,
was published.
Diet Detective: How would you describe the
current food movement in the United States? Why is it becoming more and more
prolific?
Michele Simon: The way I see it, we have two
parallel tracks. One, an increasing awareness of the importance for both people
and animals of eating fresh, real food (as in not overly processed), preferably
grown locally and produced ethically. Thanks to the combined efforts of many
activists, small farmers, policymakers, writers and others in this movement, we
are seeing great progress being made. But that still remains a small part of
the bigger picture. The second track is the rest of America (the majority) who
may have heard of these ideas but for whom eating a truly healthy diet remains
far out of reach, either because it’s not available at all or because it’s too
expensive. And too often that reality gets lost in the happy conversations
about what’s going on.
Diet Detective: The subtitle of your books
is "How the Food Industry Undermines Our Health and How to Fight
Back." Can you explain?
Michele Simon: I was inspired to write my
book with that phrase as the subtitle for two reasons. First, the food industry
is responding to criticism from various quarters by claiming to be changing its
ways, but really all we are seeing is a lot of fancy marketing. Products like
“whole grain” Reece’s Puffs cereal or baked Cheetos, etc., are examples of what
I call “Nutriwashing” companies trying to dress up junk food to look as if
it’s good for you.
The other main way the food industry undermines our health is by
lobbying against any and all government policies that would actually change the
food environment and help make us healthier. Instead, the industry wants us to
believe that voluntary action is all that’s needed. It’s this charade of
“self-regulation” that is the most insidious form of undermining our health,
because it takes the place of legally enforceable policymaking that could
actually improve things.
Diet Detective: How is our current food
system tainted by corporate influences? What are the details — is it
just farm subsidies?
Michele Simon: Farm subsidies given for all
the wrong crops, including corn, soy and wheat — the engines of our
meat and dairy and processed food-centered diets — are a big part
of how Big Agribusiness influences government policy to retain the status quo.
Another example is how industry keeps a stranglehold on certain federal
assistance programs, such as school meals and food stamps, to ensure that the
least healthy foods are given priority over fresh produce. Still another way is
how the food industry hides behind the shield of the First Amendment to claim
that free speech protects their “right” to market their unhealthy products
however they please, even to small, vulnerable children.
Diet Detective: What can the average person
do about corporate influences in government?
Michele Simon: Get organized. For any
movement, there is always strength in numbers. Industry wants us to feel alone
and powerless and to just keep watching Monday Night Football.
But there are many others out there who want to make a
difference, and many that need our support to do so. Find a group you like and
give money, volunteer, sign up and send letters, go march on Washington or your
state or local legislature. Increasingly, cities and states are forming “food
policy councils.” Find one or create one.
Diet Detective: How powerful are the food
lobbies in the U.S.?
Michele
Simon:
Just like any other industry, food companies use the power of donating money to
political candidates during the campaign season to buy their influence. Then,
when a critical policy is on the table, they call in their chips. It’s that
simple. Plus, the industry has endless resources to send armies of lobbyists to
Congress and every state capital to press their cause and advance their
interests. As for the media, corporate interests own that, too, and they need
to keep their advertisers (i.e., food companies) happy, so they cannot tell too
much without risking the loss of advertising income. Consumers are influenced
by billions of dollars in food marketing.
Diet Detective: What are some of the key
problems with our food system?
Michele Simon: There are a number of things:
-
Our
health: We eat a diet that is based too much on animal products and processed
junk food and not enough on eating the way nature intended: whole foods, mostly
from plants. Every major health organization recommends eating more plant-based
foods.
-
The environment: Our animal-centered diet, along with the chemicals
used in conventional agriculture, is killing the planet and polluting
communities.
-
Labor: Food workers (of all kinds, from farm pickers, to meat
processors, to factory workers, to restaurant staff) are the most exploited
workers out there.
-
Animals: I can’t even begin to describe the horrible conditions of factory
farms.
-
Family farmers: Small and medium farms are almost extinct due to
concentration and takeover by Big Agribusiness, which has forced family farmers
either to become beholden to large companies (losing their independence) or to
quit altogether.
There are books written about each of these topics and others. It’s
just a mess!
Diet Detective: If you were the “King of
Food” how would you fix our broken food system?
Michele Simon: Most people don’t like this
answer, but I would start over and build the system we would want to see if we
put people and ethics ahead of corporations and profits. What we are doing now
is mostly a lot of tinkering around the edges without really getting to the
heart of the problem. We have turned a very basic human need over to the
service of corporate profit. Food needs to be recognized as something so vital
to the survival of both the planet and the human race that it deserves special
protection. We need to re-order our priorities, which is a huge challenge, I admit.
But you asked.
Diet Detective: How can a person take more
control of the foods we all eat?
Michele Simon: The first step, of course, is
to take a look at your own eating habits (and those of your family) to see
where you can make improvements. The changes don’t have to be radical; even
small steps are okay. I had my “aha moment” when I realized that humans really
aren’t supposed to be eating processed foods, so I switched to a mostly
whole-foods, plant-based diet. My decisions are largely based on values
— I don’t want my food dollars going to companies like PepsiCo, Kraft,
McDonald’s, Cargill, etc. — which just makes it easier for me.
But it’s also important to realize that changing your own diet is only
one step. It’s also critical to look for ways to make healthy eating more
available to everyone in society. The good news is that there are many
organizations working to do that; you just have to find the one in your area,
or support a regional or national group. Even working to improve school meals can
be a huge undertaking. Just do something!
Diet Detective: What’s always
in your fridge and pantry?
Michele Simon: I think my fridge is stranger
than most. The top shelf has jars of grains and nuts. I always have fresh produce
from my local farmers’ market.
Diet Detective: What food would we never
find in your fridge or pantry?
Michele Simon: So many things. Anything that had a face. Anything
made by PepsiCo. Or Kraft. Or, well, you get the idea.
Diet Detective: What do you generally eat
for breakfast?
Michele Simon: Weekdays, shredded wheat
cereal with raisins, nuts and almond milk. And fresh fruit, whatever is in
season.
Diet Detective: What’s your favorite “junk
food?”
Michele Simon: Do I have to tell? I swear,
just really good organic chocolate. I am a purist.